Shelley. Plus if it’s good I’d like to do my oak furniture in the living room as well. – and I have the time and space to restore the set. We have some hard wood gates that seem to have a coating that can peel off, hence water is seeping in, I would like to remove this coating and just stain and oil them to make it easier in maintaining in future years without having to go to an enormous amount of work. You will need to remove any previous product before applying the Oil. It is a pine desk and the lid has warped. And so a test area is vital, this will show if there are any issues with applying the oil to the oak and that you will like the colour to be achieved. When I put water on it looks perfect. Is there anything you can recommend? It is a gel like substance that you can apply and leave for around 5 minutes. Smells strong, despite the claim that it can be used indoors. Teak Oil or Danish Oil would both be suitable for your project and would need regular top ups through the year to maintain there protective benefits. It will keep the wood looking natural, but will slightly darken. I have a pine dining room table which was untreated when I bought it and sustained some minor water damage following a leak through the ceiling above it. To avoid the milky finish there is the 420 clear, this one will darken the wood however. It is a great stripper for old and new paints and varnishes but test areas are strongly recommended to ensure there are no adverse reactions. What would you recommend please? Can you tell me if we are talking about internal cladding or external please ? It is not as easy to repair an varnished surface as it is and oiled one, and it may not be completely invisible but have a read of this blog and you can decide from there. You could try wiping with a damp cloth as this will give an indication of what a clear oil will achieve. Because most modern varnishes are water-based, they are generally not compatible with oiled surfaces. I have a 60 year old Burma teak hutch (which I will be stripping down to refinish) and am in the process of choosing a dining table which will be custom made. I am in the US and trying to get the project wrapped up soon. . It is available in sample size and so I would recommend this first to ensure you will like the way that it looks and that it will not change the wood. The halogen floodlight comes in two different types: soft glass or heavy glass. Even with out direct exposure to the elements it is worth protecting any exterior wood. If you are looking for something exterior feel free to get back in touch to let me know and I can suggest some alternative products. Having left the water to dry out over some months, the evidence of the leak still remains. If both pieces of furniture are for indoors then a Hard Wax Oil will be a good option, as it will finish and protect your wood. The Polyx Oil will give a more durable finish than a Danish Oil for sure and will require less frequent maintenance coats. Found your very interesting website and thought it best to ask my questions here. Sorry, not an expert on classic cars, but I will be happy to help if I know the location. I am in the process of finishing some yellow pine floorboards for a customer. I recently had an accident where a bottle of insect repellant containing deet leaked from the bottle. As it is a tropical hardwood it is also possible that it will have a naturally high moisture content and a tight grain, these are factors that will need considering when choosing the right product. Am I missing anything out? 1. Manns Premier UV Decking Oil is a popular choice, as is Ronseal Decking Oil. Acacia wood can be quite dark in tone and this is where you will have to take care and the test area is vital. He was over keen and rubbed the oil on the sides and legs of varnished oak coffee table and book case. We have internal doors, which I waxed 3 or 4 years ago, but which are now showing grubby / greasy finger marks. Sapele being a hard wood will benefit from a slightly thinner oil being applied, Barrettine Teak Oil will be suitable for your project, it will nourish and enhance the wood. For green wood it is not recommended to apply treatment, generally green wood has a high moisture content and most treatments will not adhere or be absorbed. Most amateurs find this process difficult. Please let me know if you have any further questions. 2. I purchased a beautiful (and terribly expensive) 2.4 meter Acacia wood dining table and I am petrified to let anyone near it as the wood hasn’t been oiled or waxed and as the wood is light, I fear for water marks and stains. Just had tanilised wood sleepers put in the garden as retaining walls. We would like a matt / satin finish, not gloss. The wax can build up in crevices and dips leaving a milky residue, a Course Brush can help with this. For more advice or to order feel free to call our friendly team on 01303 213 838. I’m sorry to say that it sounds like you have over applied the Oil, when this happens the Oil is unable to soak into the surface of the wood as it is supposed to, and so remains on the surface of the wood creating a film like sticky finish. The first thing I would recommend is a treatment with some Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch. They have been treated with Danish oil periodically over this period ( probably not often enough) so that now in places, especially the frames, are patchy with some black cracks. If you would like to share your decking project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages. There are a number of suggested ways to remove water stains, however I can not guarantee any of them as it is not something that we have tested here at Wood Finishes Direct. As a tropical Hard wood when Teak is new it often has a high content of its own natural oil in it and so it makes sense that applying and oil to it is the best option. Varnishing is a strictly a no-no. Once the Stain is dry you can apply either an Oil based product such as Osmo Polyx Oil which will soak into the wood and give a natural finish that will darken it very slightly and is easy to maintian. Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this will not give as much protection as the oil but will barely change the wood, in terms of colour, and can be re coated as often as you would like to refresh. I hope this helps and please let me know if you need any further help. The good thing about the Polyx Oil is that it is easy to patch repair, simply sand back the area effected and re apply some oil, it will blend well. I’ve run out of the Speedstone & can’t find it on sale anywhere now! It was bought from floors to go as oiled finish but the fitter advised me to oil it when it was fitted saying the factory oiling was only a thin layer. Please help we have an old farmhouse in France with a lot of oak beams showing all very old bur untreated which oil would it be best to use Like Maggie above, I am looking to protect the surface but also want to preserve the natural color (and texture?) If they start to look dry or worn, simply apply a thin maintenance coat to restore the appearance and protective properties. Available in clear and coloured variants. Two thin coats will give colour and protection in one. The alternative would be to rub down and remove any wax that is left on there and once back to bare clean wood you can apply a Door Oil this will be more durable than the Wax and easier to keep clean. I understand it’s all about keeping the wood ‘moist’ (!) Anyway, some advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions. I would recommend an oil such as Barrettine Teak Oil. He fitted and oiled the floor for me leaving me some oil to re do it every year. We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. The oils must be tested on each type of wood as the results will vary, although application should always be very thin and the woods will benefit from a wipe down with Barrettine Methylated Spirits first. Hi Martin, Will it eventually dry, or should I apply something like white spirit to it – and would I then need to apply a further coat? À tout moment, où que vous soyez, sur tous vos appareils. I have no idea how to care for the wood or the best product to use on it. A clear oil will slightly darken the tone of the wood and enhance the grain and you are able to get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood. Many thanks. So regular top ups will help to hold off the silvering or applying a slightly tinted oil will help. I have recently oiled with teak oil in a spray can an unknown hardwood bench from Morrison’s without realising I needed to use preservative first. Hello, I have an oak dresser where some of the top coat (assume it’s varnish or poly) has been worn off from a perfume bottle that leaked onto the top. If so, which? Thanks in advance. The reason being as you say varnishes can tend to peel and flake over time. The 429- Natural is designed to leave the wood looking as natural as possible and the 420 clear will darken very slightly. You could have a look at the Holzol Worktop Oil it is a clear oil that will protect the wood and give good water repellency. Ok my conundrum is that I have recently started studying furniture and have acquired a load of air dried spalted beech. The soft glass style looks just like the average incandescent light bulb and is labeled "R" or "BR." Fungal diseases are often caused by fungi that are common in the environment. very helpful, also it was quite expensive. We have a blog about repairing a varnished floor and the principles will be the same. Do you want an opaque paint like finish or something a little transparent that shows the grain of the wood? It is not possible to apply an oil over a lacquer as the oil needs to penetrate into the wood, the current finish will prevent this. When you’re totally intimidated by chemical strippers and you’d rather just stick to something you know: orbital sanders! Varnish is a surface seal that gives a better level of protection and will last longer. (A truly excellent website and enquiry service by the way.) I would like them to have the same colour and finish so they look harmonious. The problem with clear oil however is that the UV Protection is limited and regular top ups are required to prevent the natural silvering of the wood. Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. These are generally thinner than other exterior wood oils making them more suitable for exotic hard woods that have a tight grain. Hard Wax Oils are durable and hard wearing but will need topping up in areas such as doorways or high traffic areas sooner than others. So any standing water or excessive exposure to water can result in stains or marks. Removing the varnish back to bare wood will allow you to again re apply an oil to the wood. Using an interior wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil would be a good option. If you would like to send some photos here is the email address – wood@finishes.direct. And if you ran out of one type of oil, can you do further coats in another type, or does that not work? We have had 3 Oak internal doors fitted in the kitchen and airing cupboard, we were told to use linseed oil but after reading this site we are not sure! There is a lot of figure in the grain (lacewood) as well as some lovely colour differentiation between the pinkish heart wood and the lighter, sap wood which makes up around 2/3 of the width. I hope that helps and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. I hope that sets your mind at rest and if you have any other questions please do let me know. My husband loves the honey color of oiled teak – so no grey weathering. Then two thin coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil this will replace the natural oil lost in the cedar and again increase the repellency levels. Also, BLO isn’t typically recommended for exterior wood but perhaps alongside the shou sugi ban protection this would give ample finish to the timber. and it has arrived very pale as if it has been white washed.. they have assured me it hasn’t. That’s always supposing I feel my workmanship warrants it! Many thanks, I was concerned it’d transfer onto clothes. It is best to avoid standing liquid on any oiled surface for long periods, as although highly water repellent it will eventually mark. What is the worst thing that can happen? These appliances do not use venting mechanisms such as flues, chimneys or ducts to remove the exhaust fumes from indoors. I would like to do a wood oil finish. Can the same oil be used on the Burma teak hutch too? In terms of application for the oil a brush is best as you can use it to really work the oil into the wood, and then a lint free cloth to remove any excess. Secondly, the wood has been nailed in place; if I go over it again (wood and nails) with the oil, will this keep it waterproof where the nails have entered the wood? The reason that Barrettine do not advise use on Oak is to do with the Tannins in oak when mixed with some oils, can cause blackening of the wood. Unfortunately the wood is losing its colour(actually started process after only a few months) and has started to silver in places and mould spots. Some appears to be finished with a laquer/varnish, singe looks quite dry. All are regarding exterior use. Are any of these unnecessary? You have entered an incorrect email address! Alternatively if you want an even darker finish perhaps the Fiddes Hard wax Oil Tints these are colour and protection in one product and again two thin coats, test areas are vital to check for uptake of the oil, particularly on a hard wood such as oak and sample sizes are available. And is easy to clean, maintain and repair over time. Do you know if the orange area is heart wood ? The seller sold me a tin of Briwax to put on it, however I have read complaints that water lifts the briwax and leaves ring marks on the table. You can always come back to me if it doesn’t work and you need more advice. Laminates are often a photo with a plastic seal on it made to look like wood where as a veneer is a slice of the wood and depending on the depth of the veneer may or may not be viable for an oiled finish. If you’re using the bowls to store or present food, never use a vegetable oil. The other alternative and for a more durable finish you could have a look at the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish and we have a video on our YouTube Channel of our own Yew Table being made. Hi Sam, very informative site . As you have a rough wood you will need to take care with application. Is one better than the other for flooring? If you are looking to leave the wood as natural as possible then the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw has a small amount of white pigment in it to counter the darkening effect of a clear oil. What should I use to keep it looking good, keeping the wood health and not looking shiny ? I have purchased a solid blonde oak door for the front of my house. Hello – I wonder if you can help? Always try a test area first. For more advice you could give us a call on 01303 213838 and one of our advisers will be happy to help. We do often recommend Osmo Polyx Oil for Beams above fire places or wood stoves, the Oil copes well with heat and will not peel and flake. Here at WFD we would recommend the use of the Osmo Wood Protector to go on first. The Hard Wax Oil will also go further as it requires a very thin couple of coats. Again any thoughts, help or advice would be gratefully received. If you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page and speak to one of our friendly advisers. Sapele is a beautiful wood to work with, it is a hard wood and can be naturally high in oil already, so once sanded you must give the surface a good wipe over with Barrettine Methylated Spirits this will remove that surface oil that will discourage any treatment that you try to apply to the wood. I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved, as this will darken the wood slightly. I am currently researching into an effective sealant for exterior shou sugi ban finished wood. Do let me know if you have any further questions. This oil will darken the wood slightly however and you are able to get an idea of how much by wiping the bare surface of the wood with a damp cloth. Nonetheless, it has started to bleach out a little at the bottom from indirect sunlight. Hi, I have recently had a wood stove fitted with an oak beam above. And the Raw Polyx Oil is designed to avoid this darkening effect and leave the wood as natural as possible. For the wax you can use a cloth for application and buffing up to shine if required. What a great find this website has been and I’ve gleaned a lot if useful information. These can between them protect against mould, mildew, rot and decay, UV damage and moisture ingress, so a lot. Ventless gas fireplaces are highly beneficial and also cost less than traditional furnaces and heaters. Wood decks are popular choices for many homes. And these Cotton Rags would be ideal for doing this. We recently dry ice blasted one inside and like the result. The Hard Wax Oil is available in same sizes for you try, and please do let me know if you have any further questions. Would it be possible to restore the table by touching the area up with some wood oil or would I have to strip back the entire surface? I bought some raw beech veneer, ironed it onto some plywood and stained it. Unfortunately, after sanding back and applying the first coat of Danish oil, my customer does not like the result as it has heavily emphasised the red grain. Just get in touch via our contact us page. Hello, Hi guys, This will give a strong colour and should not raise the grain as a water-based stain may do. And for water marks, often a medium iron over a tea towel on the stain can draw out white rings caused by water marks, do take care when doing this and try a small test first to ensure no damage is caused and this would have to be done at you own risk. We have ordered an unfinished oak worktop. Can you provide recommendations. What can you suggest to protect them from rot, mould, wood boring insects etc. And chances are over time they probably will, wood is a natural and porous substrate. You can email to wood@finishes.direct and I will see what I can recommend for you. If you have a look at the products recommended and let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks Adam. i have applied 3 coast as instructed but I was hoping for a hard smooth finish, almost a ‘layer’ on top of the stained veneer – but what I have is a slightly rough still slightly raw wood type finish, like the varnish has just gone into the veneer and isn’t providing a coating on top. My nephew (a talented wood worker) told me to use wipe on poly oil to get the finish I want, or maybe teak oil. The Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain is a range of natural coloured oils that help to make the wood water repellent and slow down the silvering process.
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